The inland Argoat trails
If you thought that all Brittany had to
offer was its coastal Armor area, think
again! Inland, forests, lakes and rivers
come together to form an altogether
different landscape, characterised by
gentle undulating greenery.
The bicycle
is undoubtedly the best way to fully appreciate inland
Brittany's hidden natural treasures and cultural heritage.
With forty kilometres in the saddle each day and
accommodation in hotels full of character,
those who enjoy travelling on two wheels
will need at least a week to explore the
hidden treasures of Blavet valley and the
Morbihan coast.
An ideal starting point for a bicycle trip,
Guerlédan lake offers an undulating
route without any major difficulties at
the heart of one of the region’s most
sumptuous forests, Quénécan.
Its shady
foothills harbour numerous chapels
which make ideal rest stops where bikers
can appreciate the wealth of Brittany’s
religious architecture. In summer these
chapels play host to contemporary artistic
creations, providing an astonishing blend
of styles and colours.
After a detour
via the Cistercian Abbey of Bon Repos
and the ironworks in La Salle, the route
continues along the Blavet River, which
meanders its way towards the sea through
hills and clearings until it finally reaches
the site of Poul Fétan.
This small village
with thatched roofs was inhabited until
1970 and has now been entirely renovated,
today housing workshops and small shops
for traditional arts and crafts: a genuine
living museum which offers its visitors
a glimpse of the traditions and activities
of 19th century country life.
The peaceful
country road finally reaches Auray and
the old harbour of Saint Goustan, whose
granite quayside, worn cobbles and old
timber-framed houses are a legacy of the
town’s flourishing trade history.
Around the Gulf of Morbihan
The landing pier for the Gulf of Morbihan
lies just a few kilometres from Auray.
This peaceful “inner sea” is peppered with
some 300 islands, each with its own unique
character.
The Ile aux Moines is known as
the “pearl of the Gulf” and well
deserves
this title: despite its popularity, the Gulf
of Morbihan’s largest island has not lost
its alluring charm.
By bicycle, visitors can savour the scent of pines, camellias and
mimosas which blends with the salty tang
of the ocean. A detour along the narrow
streets reveals the old fishermen’s cottages
whose dry stone walls conceal pretty
hollyhocks.
Back on dry land, cyclists are rewarded
with a host of other outstanding sites.
Around twenty kilometres from Auray, a
forest with an arrangement of megaliths
heralds the delightful resort of Carnac. A
little further on, the Etel estuary, bathed
in light from the sun’s first rays, offers a
sumptuous view of the Morbihan coast
as it blends into the sea.
Kermario standing stones, Carnac
Before bringing
your trip to a close, a visit to the Quiberon peninsula is a
must. On one side, a peaceful coastal façade offers
picturesque beaches, while on the other a wild coastline is
battered by turbulent waves and gusty winds.
Donkey trekking through the Breton
countryside
Inland Brittany also has many hidden
surprises. Around Gacilly, near Redon,
the Breton countryside has retained all
its charm and offers a traditional rolling
pastoral landscape. In an area where
water exists in all its forms (rivers, lakes,
streams, etc.), dense hedges shelter bird
colonies and a rich flora.
The dirt tracks which cut across the
countryside form several 8–15 km loops. Donkey rides are
proposed by a few of the area’s B&Bs and provide an original
addition to a family outing. Accustomed to hard work, these
trusty four-legged companions will carry children, food and
rucksacks for a day.
